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The Boston Globe

Food & dining

Sips

Hyper-local wines in the eyes of the beholder

ROWLEY — You might think that wine made within an hour’s drive of Boston is about as local as you can get. But if grapes are grown somewhere other than Massachusetts — in California, for example — does that make the wine less local? On a sunny blue-sky Saturday, we head to the North Shore to find out.

It may be news to you that Massachusetts’s north coast is home to a growing community of wineries and beer breweries. Four of those producers hope to change that by branding themselves the North Shore Crush & Brew Trail, anchored by Rowley’s Mill River Winery in the south and Jewell Towne Vineyards just over the New Hampshire border in South Hampton in the north. These winemakers have a lot to say about what’s local.

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