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Posh protein at new Burlington steakhouse

Where to The Bancroft, a modern American steakhouse in Burlington’s burgeoning 3rd Ave retail development.

What for Expense account gourmandising. Enjoy an $85 Tomahawk rib steak for two amid Warhol prints and ornate light fixtures.

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The scene Gordon Gekko’s dream lair. Glossy men wield sharp knives. Corporate groups hoist glasses. Women in stiletto heels teeter to the host stand and skid a bit on the buffed floor. Should you need to broker a deal, the wait staff is delighted to provide tours: The Warhol room, a plush area festooned with Pop Art, was created for this purpose. There’s also an upstairs dining room adorned with vintage Sex Pistols “God Save the Queen” prints.

What you’re eating Posh protein. Chef Mario Capone worked under Lydia Shire at Biba, Scampo, and Towne. Here, he specializes in all manner of meat: sirloin, rib-eye, and steak au poivre (pictured), paired with a selection of sauces, butters, and salts. (If you’re feeling flush, add a market-priced lobster tail or bone marrow.) Produce comes from Groton’s Gibbet Hill Farm, a Webber Restaurant Group sister property. There are also raw bar offerings and familiar steakhouse sides like potato gratin and creamed spinach.

Care for a drink? There’s a 32-seat bar and a purposeful craft cocktail program with flips, fizzes, and smashes; at brunch, a vast Bloody Mary buffet showcases seasonings like turmeric and Himalayan pink salt. A lengthy wine list provides tasting notes, including “dry as a bone” and “noses of roses.”

Overheard Corporate secrets and caffeine confessions. “Look: There’s a bunch of jobs coming up at Cisco,” an avuncular gent reveals to a friend. “And they’re even in LA. They’ll all pop up in September. You need to get while the getting’s good.” Two khaki-clad retirees amble toward the door. “Don’t listen to your critics. You know your industry best,” one tells the other, holding the door. “I haven’t done this in a very long time,” says a young man seated at a long table, raising a glass to his lips. His companions howl. A perky waitress alights at a booth of young women. “I’ll make you iced coffee the way I like it — with tons of cream and raw sugar. I’ll even bring a funnel!” Laughs all around. “We’re the first ones here. We’re always the first ones here,” a woman with bouncy curls and a Michael Kors purse hisses at her beleaguered mate.

15 Third Ave., Burlington, 781-221-2100, www.the-bancroft.com

Kara Baskin can be reached at kcbaskin@gmail.com.
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