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Cooking tip from food editor Sheryl Julian

Any substantial salad — chef’s, Greek, Nicoise — can be tucked into a dense, chewy roll to make a cool beach supper (pictured here is the famous Provencal pan bagnat with tuna and olives). Hollow out the roll and sprinkle the cut sides with olive oil and salt. Layer the ingredients inside, reshape, and wrap securely in parchment. Chill for several hours for the flavors to mellow.

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