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Black Cow inspired by Bailey’s parlors

The menu at Black Cow Ice Cream in Millis features a root beer float (pictured), choco-late dipped cones, and more.

Zack Wittman for the Boston Globe

The menu at Black Cow Ice Cream in Millis features a root beer float (pictured), choco-late dipped cones, and more.

Zack Wittman for the Boston Globe

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Wally Walsh’s childhood memories of Bailey’s ice cream parlors inspired him to open Black Cow Ice Cream in Millis. Nostalgic for the legendary shop’s root beer floats, called black cows, Walsh named his place after the icy treat. His seasonal ice creamery (it stays open until Sept. 21) has a 1950s look, but Walsh opened 17 years ago and churns small batches of premium creamy, rich, dense ice cream ($3.65 for a cone; $6.25 a pint; $10.75 a quart) in 200 rotating flavors. Some combinations, including maple bacon and a sorbet with Campari liqueur and fresh grapefruit juice, are not a step back in time. More traditional, rum-raisin is full of plump fruits soaked in Myers’s Rum; pistachio is laced with sizable bits of the nut. The ice cream maker re-created Bailey’s hot fudge sauce for sundaes, and it is thick, smooth, and creamy, and indeed tastes similar to the original. And that black cow in a 22-ounce serving is a foamy drink of Maine-brewed root beer with vanilla ice cream. Walsh is a former electrician, but ice cream making has more appeal to him. “No one comes in here grumpy,” he says. “It makes you feel good.”

Black Cow Ice Cream,1397 Main St., Route 109, Millis, 508-376-4884, www.blackcowicecream.com

ANN TRIEGER KURLAND

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