Food & dining

by the glass by ellen bhang | globe correspondent

House pours

From left: Nancy Batista-Caswell, Ceia Kitchen + Bar and Brine; Keith Harmon (top left), Tres Gatos and Centre Street Cafe; Theresa Paopao (top right), Ribelle and Strip-T’s; Zach Lieberman (below), Sycamore; Anne Thompson, BISq and Bergamot; Todd Lipman, Bistro du Midi; Noell Dorsey, Island Creek Oyster Bar; Daniel Braun, The Inn at Hastings Park; Bernadette Keaveney, La Morra and Heritage of Sherborn; and Nicholas Daddona, Boston Harbor Hotel.
From left: Nancy Batista-Caswell, Ceia Kitchen + Bar and Brine; Keith Harmon (top left), Tres Gatos and Centre Street Cafe; Theresa Paopao (top right), Ribelle and Strip-T’s; Zach Lieberman (below), Sycamore; Anne Thompson, BISq and Bergamot; Todd Lipman, Bistro du Midi; Noell Dorsey, Island Creek Oyster Bar; Daniel Braun, The Inn at Hastings Park; Bernadette Keaveney, La Morra and Heritage of Sherborn; and Nicholas Daddona, Boston Harbor Hotel.

Daniel Braun

General manager at
The Inn at Hastings Park
in Lexington

Lucien Albrecht Gewurztraminer
Reserve, Alsace 2012

With its perfumed notes of lychee and almost no acidity, this Alsatian white is Braun’s go-to pour when he cooks hot chicken sausage with peppers or Thai curry. “It’s the perfect companion to spicy foods,” he says. Around $20 at Last National Wine Co., Acton, 978-897-5511

Broc Cellars “Love Red” 2014
A blend with old vine carignan and valdiguie with a splash of syrah, this California red is crafted by a Berkeley winemaker. Braun likes how this wine is made with “minimal human intervention,” which allows terroir to shine through. Around $22 at Last National Wine Co.

Nancy Batista-Caswell

Owner and wine director
at Ceia Kitchen + Bar and Brine, in Newburyport

Les Heritiers du Comte Lafon,
Macon-Milly-Lamartine
“Clos du Four” 2013

Batista-Caswell calls this French chardonnay “opulent” with “sweet lemon on the nose” and appetizing minerality. “You can cocktail with it while you are cooking,” she says, “then serve with scallops or chicken.” Around $29 at BRIX South End, Boston, 617-542-2749

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Di Majo Norante “Ramitello”
Molise Rosso 2011
“On a cold night, I want a big red,” says Batista-Caswell of this Italian pour. She likes the “plum, cocoa, and forest floor” notes, and recommends it with earthy mushroom dishes. Around $19 at Grand Trunk Old World Market, Newburyport, 978-499-4441

Nicholas Daddona

Wine director at Boston Harbor Hotel at the Boston Waterfront

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Domaine Chevalier Pere & Fils,
Bourgogne Aligote 2012

Daddona has fond memories of French aligote, which he calls “chardonnay’s cousin.” Last year, on his honeymoon in Paris, he sipped this wine while eating raw oysters with his bride. Around $20 at The Urban Grape, South End, Boston, 857-250-2509

Francois Villard “L’Appel des Sereines” 2013
This Northern Rhone syrah, says Daddona, offers “blackberry patch and pepper” as well as “herbs, earth, and spices” that elevate poultry, pork, or rich seafood like bluefish. Around $18 at The Urban Grape

Noell Dorsey

Wine director at Island Creek Oyster Bar in Kenmore Square, Boston

Rietsch Sylvaner, Alsace 2014
Describing this Alsatian white as “crushable and unique,” Dorsey loves its floral and flint scents, plus flavors of lemon zest, green apple, and a “nice salt-washed feeling on the finish.” Around $22 at Central Bottle Wine + Provisions, Cambridge, 617-225-0040

Thurnhof St. Magdalener 2014 Crafted from the vernatsch grape, this Northern Italian red suggests “slight smoke and savory notes” that Dorsey enjoys at home with three-bean chili with herb pesto. Around $17 at Central Bottle Wine + Provisions

Keith Harmon

Owner and wine director
at Tres Gatos and Centre Street Cafe, in Jamaica Plain

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Anton Bauer “Gmork” Gruner
Veltliner 2014

Offering apple, tart papaya, and white pepper, this Austrian white quaff has a “sense-of-place acidity,” says Harmon, and a touch or residual sugar that make it great with fish, soft cheeses, and Vietnamese pho. Around $15 at Streetcar Wine & Beer, Jamaica Plain, Boston, 617-522-6416

Folk Machine “Parts & Labor” 2014
This California red is a light-on-its-feet blend of four grapes — syrah, carignan, grenache, and barbera — crafted by winemaker Kenny Likitprakong from fruit at four vineyards. Harmon says it’s a winner with his own fennel-and-lemon-stuffed roast chicken. Around $18 at Streetcar Wine & Beer

Bernadette Keaveney

Beverage and wine director at La Morra in Brookline Village and Heritage of Sherborn in Sherborn

Columna Albarino 2014
Keaveney loves that this sustainably farmed white from northwestern Spain is “bright and floral,” offering “a certain lushness” on the finish. Appealing with sushi, ceviche, or Thai and Indian dishes. Around $15 at Heritage Fine Wine, Coffee & Provisions, Sherborn, 508-655-9521

Marchesi di Barolo “Ruvei”
Barbera d’Alba 2013

This expression of old vine barbera, says Keaveney, is full of “dark plum, violets, and supple oak tannins.” The Italian red is delicious with lamb, beef, and mature cheeses she might serve. Around $17 at Heritage Fine Wine, Coffee & Provisions

Zach Lieberman

General manager at Sycamore in Newton Centre

Marco Sara “Erre Gialla” Vino
Bianco 2013

Lieberman enjoys the “high-toned minerality, good acidity, and a little texture” that make this Northern Italian white excellent with lobster and hearty herb-scented vegetable dishes at home. Around $20 at The Wine Bottega, North End, Boston, 617-227-6607

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Isabelle et Bruno Perraud Beaujolais Villages Nouveau, Brut de Cuve 2015
Beaujolais Nouveau, the red wine bottled in France weeks after harvest, can suffer from a poor reputation, says Lieberman, so this version from a natural winemaking team is most welcome. It’s juicy with strawberry but balanced by “a nice leafy herbal quality and very quenching.” Around $20 at Violette Wine Cellars, West Cambridge, 617-876-4125. (Photo shows a Perraud Beaujolais Nouveau 2014.)

Todd Lipman

Head sommelier at
Bistro du Midi in Back Bay, Boston

Domaine des Baumard
Savennieres 2012

This Loire chenin blanc, says Lipman, offers notes of “dried honey, quince, fresh white flowers, and strong sense of minerality,” a French white that’s a “fantastic foil for raw seafood.” Around $22 at Gordon’s Fine Wines & Liquors, Main Street location, Waltham, 781-893-1900

La Kiuva, Arnad Montjovet,
Vallee d’Aosta 2013

Lipman thinks this alpine-grown Italian nebbiolo blend, made in a “softer, juicy” style, with spice and smoky character, is a delightful red with charcuterie, duck, and grilled meats. Around $18 at Gordon’s Fine Wines & Liquors

Theresa Paopao

Beverage director at Ribelle in Washington Square, Brookline, and Strip-T’s
in Watertown

Weingut Aigner “Sandgrube” Grüner Veltliner 2014
Paopao describes this Austrian pour as “snappy with a little bit of zip,” offering “a crispness you don’t find in other whites.” A winner with smoked Gouda and Triscuits, she says. Around $20 at Vinodivino, Washington Square, Brookline, 617-879-9400

La Ferme Julien Vin Rouge 2014 From the Perrin family, best known for Chateauneuf-du-Pape, comes this pretty French red table wine. “This bottle gets it right,” says Paopao about its red fruit profile and food-friendly acidity, delicious with meatballs in marinara. Around $6 at Trader Joe’s, Coolidge Corner, Brookline, 617-278-9997

Anne Thompson

Wine director at BISq in
Inman Square, Cambridge, and Bergamot in
Somerville

I Clivi, Friuli Colli Orientali,
Friuliano San Pietro 2013

Thompson loves this Italian white for its yeasty scents and a “mineral-driven” palate with “searing acidity.” Wonderful with smoked oysters and rich tinned fish at her own table. Around $22 at The Spirited Gourmet, Belmont, 617-489-9463

Pacina “Il Secondo” Toscana 2013 The pure fruit flavors of this Italian sangiovese red are not masked by oak, says Thompson, who likes how the acidity of this Tuscan pour “lifts the palate.” Around $22 at Violette Wine Cellars