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Recipe for hermits

Sally Pasley Vargas for The Boston Globe/Globe Freelance

Makes 56

Some years ago, the Food section had a cookie contest and this was a winning recipe. It came from Elaine "Cookie" McGinn, who got them from a cousin in Nova Scotia. We have fiddled with the recipe over the years. McGinn's was originally made in a rectangular pan and cut into bars and didn't contain as many spices as these. Here, the batter is baked as logs, then cut into wide bands, the way old-fashioned local bakeries used to do. Hermits, according to food lore, were packed in tins and taken to sea by North Atlantic fisherman centuries ago because the molasses kept the cookies soft during the long voyages.

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cups flour
½ teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons ground ginger
1 teaspoon ground allspice
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground nutmeg
½ cup (1 stick) butter, at room temperature
1 cup sugar
3 eggs
1 cup molasses
cups raisins
Extra sugar (for sprinkling)

1. Set the oven at 350 degrees. Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper. Have on hand an offset spatula and a tall glass of cold water.

2. In a bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, ginger, allspice, cinnamon, and nutmeg.

3. In an electric mixer, cream the butter and sugar. Beat in the eggs, one by one, followed by the molasses. The mixture may look curdled; that's OK.

4. With the mixer set on its lowest speed, beat in the flour mixture until the batter is smooth. Remove the bowl from the mixer. Use a spoon to stir in the raisins. The dough will be quite sticky.

5. The batter makes 7 logs, each 12-by-1½ inches. Use a soup spoon to make a log on one long side of the baking sheet. Make another log on the other side, leaving a wide space between them. The batter spreads a lot and flattens during baking. Dip the spatula into water and use it to smooth the tops and sides of the logs, dipping it into the water often. Don't worry about moistening the dough too much. Continue with 2 more logs on the second baking sheet. Sprinkle the logs generously with sugar.

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6. Bake the logs for 22 to 25 minutes or until they are firm when pressed with a fingertip. Transfer the logs on the parchment to wire racks to cool completely.

7. Bake the remaining batter in the same way, letting the baking sheets cool before reusing.

8. Transfer the logs to a cutting board. Cut each into 8 slices (make 7 cuts) to form 1½-inch-wide hermits. Store in an airtight container. Sheryl Julian. Adapted from Elaine “Cookie” McGinn