Food & dining

Bottles

A Cape Cod beer that’s only going to get funkier

devil’s purse

Last week, Devil’s Purse Brewing Company cofounder Matt Belson loaded up his car in a snowstorm and drove from Cape Cod to Boston.

In the trunk were bottles of Skywave, a bottle-conditioned saison destined for select retailers. Starting this month, Skywave became the first offering from the South Dennis brewery to hit the Boston area.

Belson and cofounder Mike Segerson met through their wives six years ago and bonded over brewing. The latter grew up coming to the Cape, and both have lived there for more than a decade.

Advertisement

“I like to say that we did two hobby batches,” says Segerson. “And then after the second batch, we decided we’re going to brew in my basement to learn how to open a brewery.”

Get The Weekender in your inbox:
The Globe's top picks for what to see and do each weekend, in Boston and beyond.
Thank you for signing up! Sign up for more newsletters here

These days there’s nothing novel about wanting to open a brewery, but there aren’t a lot of them down the Cape. There’s Cape Cod Beer, in Hyannis, and this summer Hog Island Beer Company plans to open in Orleans. Belson and Segerson felt there was room for more.

“Anyone that knows Cape Cod knows it’s very segmented from town to town,” says Segerson. “I grew up going to Chatham, and the first time I went to Falmouth was like three years ago.”

Even in the dead of winter, Belson says he’s been pleasantly surprised by turnout at the brewery. Devil’s Purse’s two main “clean” beers are a Kölsch and an ESB (during the summer, they send the Kölsch home with customers who say they don’t like beer). The brewery is named after the little egg cases from sharks and skates that turn up on the beaches. Some of the beers are also named with a nautical bent; they include Darkened Ship, a chalky stout with hints of anise and raisin, and Sevenstones Double IPA, which undergoes a secondary fermentation with the bacteria Brettanomyces Claussenii that churns up notes of pineapple and guava. The brewery typically has five taps running for growler fills.

Skywave is brewed with French saison yeast and two kinds of Brettanomyces.

Advertisement

“It’s gonna get funkier,” says Segerson. “The Brett rounds out that French saison yeast that can be a little harsh sometimes, gives it a fruitier character.”

It’s a subtle beer with dandelions on the nose and white pepper in the back of the throat. The 750ml bottles can be aged for up to two years.

Around $20 a bottle, Skywave is periodically available at Craft Beer Cellar, Belmont (617-932-1885, www.craftbeercellar.com), and Pemberton Farms, Cambridge (617-491-2244, www.pembertonfarms.com).

Gary Dzen can be reached at gary.dzen@globe.com. Follow him on Twitter @GaryDzen