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    From the Bar

    Grüner plays well with an updated seafood classic

    Seafood boil paired with a 2015 Landhaus Mayer Grüner Veltliner 2015 at Harvest.
    Kelsey Dupont
    Seafood boil paired with a 2015 Landhaus Mayer Grüner Veltliner 2015 at Harvest.
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    At Harvest in Harvard Square, a classic dish gets new life. A New England seafood boil features the usual mussels and clams, but adds Scituate scallops and seared-crisp red fish fillets, all plated on glossy squid ink gnocchi. Master Sommelier Brahm Callahan, the restaurant’s beverage manager, says that the lemongrass-seaweed broth, which arrives on the side, provides a flavorful “jumping off point” for a 2015 Landhaus Mayer Grüner Veltliner 2015 ($11 a glass, $48 a bottle). The pour, he notes, should not be underestimated. “It has prominent minerality like you find in Chablis,” he says. This bottle in particular, crafted by a group of growers in Austria’s Niederösterreich, offers what Callahan calls “a nice snapshot” of the region, showing what the grape can do in the right hands. Offering generous fruit, herbaceousness, and saline, the white offers weight that plays with the dish, plus acidity that cuts through the sumptuousness of the pillowy pasta. “It’s an introduction to what grüner veltliner should taste like,” says the somm.

    Harvest, 44 Brattle St., Harvard Square, Cambridge,
    617-868-2255, www.harvest
    cambridge.com

    ELLEN BHANG