Food & dining

Quick Bites

Davis Square Hand Crafted Donuts & Bagels already feels like an old favorite

Manager Maria Dardonis walks past a mural featuring Somerville landmarks at Davis Square Donuts & Bagels.

Pat Greenhouse/Globe Staff

Manager Maria Dardonis walks past a mural featuring Somerville landmarks at Davis Square Donuts & Bagels.

Where to Davis Square Hand Crafted Donuts & Bagels.

What for Doughy treats like doughnuts and bagels, of course, plus omelets, sandwiches, and coffee.

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The scene Like it’s been here forever, even though it’s a newcomer. A couple of older neighborhood denizens chat and sip coffee on the patio, newspapers folded at their sides. A line extends to the door, filled with folks debating bagel orders. A few couples sit at counters off to the side, reading the paper (yes, a real, live newspaper). Next to the cash register, seasonal decorations are in full effect: a cheery sign that says, “Happy Fall, Y’All” accented with leaves and another that announces the availability of pumpkin spice lattes. “Donut hesitate to leave suggestions,” reads another.

What you’re eating All manner of breakfast goodies: scratch-made jumbo doughnuts, bagels (many of them vegan), egg sandwiches, omelets, and sandwiches, too. A jalapeno cheddar bagel topped with egg and cheese is a popular choice, says a staffer, but there are plenty of options — bagels with cream cheese spreads like bacon scallion, honey walnut, and jalapeno; omelets with the usual fixings; and a “beast mode” sandwich for those who really need to power through the day, made with ham, bacon, sausage, egg, and cheese. (Feeling guilty? Get a side of avocado for $1.) There are also doughnuts of the day, oversize and fluffy: fruity pebbles, cinnamon sugar, Nutella. At lunch, grab a tuna sandwich or hummus with lettuce and cheese.

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Care for a drink? All of your usual caffeinated favorites are here, courtesy of Peet’s Coffee: espresso, lattes, cold brew. (And, of course, those pumpkin spice lattes.)

Overheard Space constraints; familial complaints. A man stands at a small counter topped with milk jugs and utensils, squirting packets of ketchup atop his egg sandwich and knocking things over in the process. “They need to expand,” he says apologetically, moving over to make room for a woman who floods her cup of iced coffee with milk. A couple with The New York Times spread out between them — he in a bright red “Brooklyn” cap — huff about someone’s Uncle Warren. “You know how Uncle Warren can be,” says his companion. A fellow behind the counter slathers cream cheese atop a bagel, and a customer nearly vaults over the cash register to stop him. “That’s too much cream cheese!” she cries, and then composes herself. On the patio, two older guys chat real estate. “If they want someone to buy the house in back of me, they better mark it down,” one harrumphs to another.

377 Summer St., Davis Square, Somerville, 617-764-0631, www.davissquaredonutsandbagels.com

The Quick Bite column is not a restaurant review, rather a first look and scene-setter. Kara Baskin can be reached at kara.baskin@globe.com.
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