Food & dining

FROM THE BAR

From the Bar: At Bondir, grüner harmonizes with grilled squid

A 2016 grüner veltliner from Weingut Leth paired with squid at Bondir.

Jason Bond

A 2016 grüner veltliner from Weingut Leth paired with squid at Bondir.

The wine list at Bondir Cambridge is looking delightfully fresh. Chef-owner Jason Bond and general manager Kate Grogan have revamped the selection of European and American pours. “It reflects my style of cooking and the style of the restaurant,” says Bond of the list. “We’re always looking for wines that drink higher than their price point.”

One of those bottles is a 2016 grüner veltliner from Weingut Leth ($12 a glass, $48 a bottle), crafted in Austria’s Wagram, west of Vienna, by third-generation winemaker Franz Leth. “Steinagrund” is the terraced vineyard where these grapes are grown. The chef likes how the lively wine offers fruit, but not so much “to scare anybody away.”

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The white pairs harmoniously with squid, rubbed with a fermented chile paste, then grilled. Summer truffles and tomato water, blended with basil and bonito flakes, have recently been part of the always-evolving dish. As autumn progresses, don’t be surprised if squid gives way to mackerel, and pumpkin replaces the sweet nightshade. “It’s fun to do what we do,” Bond says. “We find special ingredients and let them express themselves.”

Bondir Cambridge, 279A Broadway, Cambridge, 617-661-0009,
www.bondircambridge.com

ELLEN BHANG

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