At Moon Bar, a sleek street-level spot downstairs from Mooncusser Fish House, a handsome bottle from the Canary Islands will catch your eye. Its shoulders are rounded rather than sloping, and the front sports a decal featuring a sun with poppy-red rays. “It speaks to what’s cool about the list,” says Ian Calhoun, one of the owners of the wine bar, offering 25 glass pours and open for lunch and dinner. The distinctive red — a 2015 Bodegas Los Bermejos Listán Negro ($16 a glass, $60 a bottle) — is one of many favorites the restaurateur has tasted over the years since he and Vincent Vela, together with executive chef Carolyn Johnson, opened 80 Thoreau in Concord. The product of volcanic soils, it’s appetizing alongside tagliatelle with braised lamb and mushroom ragu. “The herbs, parsley, and scallions of the dish complement the herbal components in the wine,” he says, adding that the pour’s tannins, smoky notes, and “acidic lift” reset the palate between bites. The red also pairs with seafood. “You can enjoy the same glass with a richer fish dish,” he reassures.
Moon Bar, 304 Stuart St.,