Food & dining
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    Quick Bite

    Southie dreams of sushi

    Murals of geishas adorn the brick walls at Fat Baby in South Boston.
    Aram Boghosian for The Boston Globe
    Murals of geishas adorn the brick walls at Fat Baby in South Boston.

    Where to Fat Baby, a lair filled with sushi, snacks, and sake sangria, from the group behind South Boston sweet spots Lincoln and Loco Taqueria.

    What for Southie’s answer to Myers + Chang, Tiger Mama, et al.

    The scene The restaurant probably looks great, but it’s so dark it’s hard to tell. Details begin to reveal themselves: brick walls, wood ceiling, copper lamps with etched glass bulbs, geisha murals on the wall (the concept of cultural appropriation hasn’t quite arrived here). There’s a crush at the bar at the center of the room, and the long tables that line the wall adjacent to the open kitchen are filled with twentysomething friend groups drinking and eating noodle bowls and fancy maki. A Miley Cyrus lookalike sipping a fruity cocktail calls out to a friend she just spotted across the room, and excited greetings ensue. At the bar, a guy in a plaid shirt and his all-American girlfriend wrap their arms around each other’s necks and sway back and forth to the music. A group of women in matching athleisure wear break out in a song-and-chair-dance routine.

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    What you’re eating Sashimi, sushi, and specialty rolls with names like Sneaky Russian (with seared scallops and black garlic aioli), So Beefy (short rib and spicy queso), and White Tiger (tuna, apples, soy paper, and goat cheese emulsion). For the indecisive, there’s the Rainbow roll, cucumber, avocado, and blue crab topped with four kinds of fish. The menu also includes crispy rice cakes with tuna and ponzu glaze, Korean barbecue ribs, shrimp and beef lo mein, and more.

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    Care for a drink? Mai Tais and Singapore Slings meet frisky originals like the Tryna Smash (rum, Chartreuse, lemon, mint, and ginger beer) and the 8PM Taco (tequila, lime, lychee, apple, and cranberry reduction).

    Overheard Strangers rearranging seating so everyone can fit at the bar, neighbors trading tips on what to order, holiday post-mortems. “I met all of them. They’re adorable,” says a woman with long, curled hair and a ski cap gesturing toward the next table. A fellow teases a new acquaintance: “This girl looks like she can put Fireball away multiple times.” A server delivers a bottle and tumblers to a group of friends, then pauses and smiles: “You want real wine glasses with that?” Someone declares post-holiday victory: “I feel skinny right now.”

    118 Dorchester St., South Boston, 617-766-3450, www.fatbabysouth
    boston.com

    Devra First can be reached at devra.first@globe.com.
    Follow her on Twitter @devrafirst.