You can now read 5 articles in a month for free on Read as much as you want anywhere and anytime for just 99¢.

Milan designers offer softer silhouette for men

MILAN — Milan designers offered a softer, sporty silhouette for men next fall and winter.

Menswear has been driving Italian luxury exports as well as global sales of luxury goods as men become more daring and discerning in their wardrobe choices. Purchases are no longer relegated to special occasion tuxes or watches, but also encompass every-day wear for home and office.

That can help explain the trend in Milan toward relaxed and athletic looks, typified by active-wear pants cinched at the waist, often in knit fabrics, paired with big, boxy sweatshirts and sweaters. There was a sense of escape, offering men an alternate reality.

Still, there was no shortage of suits and coats. One of the week’s strongest trends were skinny pants, evoking the 1960s, often worn with neat, cropped jackets.

The main color palate was darkly masculine, with a smattering of dusty pastels and contrast of eggplant, peacock, and greens. Designers also flashed up garments in shiny silver and gold. Shoes were heavily soled and bags ample.

Even when loose and casual, the looks were always underpinned by Italian tailoring, craftsmanship, and innovative textiles that enriched the garments.



  • Giorgio Armani has loosened up his silhouette for next winter.

  • The Milan fashion powerhouse sprang to prominence with his 1970s deconstructed jacket with big shoulders. For next winter’s menswear collection, previewed on the last day of Milan Fashion Week, Armani has reworked that jacket, taking structural cues from cardigans.

  • The result is a look that maintains the emblematic Armani tailoring while at the same time being relaxed with gently sloping, raglan shoulders. Then Armani does something else: He inverts his look, and beneath the easy jacket, which is almost always unbuttoned, he puts a very button-down vest, double-breasted with or without a slotted lapel for a new take on the three-piece suit.



  • Roberto Cavalli’s menswear collection next fall and winter encapsulated his vision of a man who is free-spirited, never dull, and always impeccably dressed.

  • ‘‘So many menswear collections are boring,’’ Cavalli said before his show. ‘‘I try not to make it boring.’’

  • His womenswear collections usually revolve around sexy dresses done in animal prints, and Cavalli’s men’s line also heeds the call of the wild. An overcoat starts out as herringbone at the bottom and gradually transforms to zebra print at the top. A slim-cut suit was paired with rock ’n’ roll inspired creepers with studs around the sole or done up in leopard. The surface of leather in biker jackets is reworked with studs from within to resemble the blister-like surface of tropical lizards.

  • And where else but on Cavalli’s runway would you see a full-length fur coat done in a patchwork of black, white, and red fox?



  • Canadian design duo Dan and Dean Caten at DSquared2, known for their memorable runway shows, outdid themselves this time by transforming their menswear fall-winter 2014-2015 catwalk into a prison.

  • The lights went on to reveal a cell block filled with DSquared2 ‘‘inmates,’’ perhaps doing time for fashion crimes. The first model out wore an orange bomber jacket with ‘‘Caten Penitentiary’’ emblazoned across the back.

  • Many of the looks involved jeans cuffed above the ankle and Dr. Martens-style work boots. Leather or denim jean jackets were paired with black pants stopping above the angle. A jean jacket came with straitjacket-style buckles running down the back. For a more formal look, there was a black cloth bomber jacket with patch pockets worn over a white shirt and narrow tie.

Loading comments...
Want each day's news headlines delivered fresh to your
inbox every morning? Just connect with us
in one of the following ways:
Please enter a valid email will never post anything without asking.
Privacy Policy
Subscriber Log In

You have reached the limit of 5 free articles in a month

Stay informed with unlimited access to Boston’s trusted news source.

  • High-quality journalism from the region’s largest newsroom
  • Convenient access across all of your devices
  • Today’s Headlines daily newsletter
  • Subscriber-only access to exclusive offers, events, contests, eBooks, and more
  • Less than 25¢ a week
Marketing image of
Marketing image of