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The Boston Globe

Food & dining

The complimentary breadbasket is disappearing

It would be premature to pronounce the restaurant breadbasket dead. But what was once a straightforward offering has become so tricky that when chef Eric Gburski was deciding what to give diners at Estelle’s, his new Southern-inspired restaurant, pickles seemed a safer option than warm cornbread.

“Not only are pickles gluten free,” he said, “but they’re soy and nut free, and there’s no dairy in them.”

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