In my decades-old memory, Taos, N.M., was a secluded, magical town tucked away in the Sangre de Cristo mountains and populated by ranchers, Native Americans, artists, and nonconformists. After a weeklong visit to northern New Mexico, I’m happy to report there is still magic in the air, but it has dispersed. While Taos, now long discovered, holds some treasures and a similar cast of characters, the surroundings grabbed more of my attention this time.