With two-thirds of Taiwan covered by the east coast’s mountainous terrain, the west coast’s big cities are home to most of the island’s 23 million residents. Though these concrete jungles are surrounded by lush greenery, soaring mountains, and peaceful meadows, it wasn’t until I escaped Taipei for Sun Moon Lake in Nantou County — located in the geographical heart of Taiwan — that I truly understood why Formosa, Taiwan’s original name, means “beautiful island.”