With former Massachusetts governor Mitt Romney the Republican candidate for president, more eyes than ever are on his Mormon faith. No place is better for exploring the history and teachings of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints than here. But there’s much more to this city of 170,000 than religion. Gone are the days when you couldn’t get a drink and nothing was open on Sunday. Liquor laws were relaxed in 2009, more outdoors and arts lovers have moved in, and in the city proper the Mormon population stands at only 55 percent. (The state, however, remains overwhelmingly Mormon.)

While “The Greatest Snow on Earth” is still the biggest tourist draw here during ski season, non-skiers and those taking a break from the slopes will find lively neighborhoods, great shopping, memorable restaurants, and a fascinating look at a religion in the spotlight.