If it weren’t for all those oystermen, the Apalachicola Bay estuary would be heaven for an oyster. The nutrient-rich flow of the Apalachicola River mixes with saline waters of the Gulf of Mexico, enabling oysters to grow big and fat in as little as two years from spat to plate. Conditions are so optimal that the bay is the last place in the country where wild oysters are harvested with tongs from small boats. Hauled up with what look like a pair of hinged garden rakes, Apalachicola bivalves have a buttery, nutty flavor. Every eatery in town serves oysters, but these three do it especially well.
By David Lyon| Globe correspondent October 28, 2012
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