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Rave

American Seasons restaurant on Nantucket

Hand-painted wall murals in American Seasons restaurant.

AMERICAN SEASONS

Hand-painted wall murals in American Seasons restaurant.

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NANTUCKET — It’s nice to know there are some things you can count on. Longtime favorite American Seasons restaurant on Nantucket Island is one of them. The warm, dimly-lighted dining room, with hand-painted wall murals and American art and antiques, is perpetually crowded and often loud. No matter: Grab a coveted, candlelit table, and let chef Michael LaScola amaze you with his imaginative, haute-humble cuisine. LaScola starts with locally-sourced ingredients — vegetables and organic produce from Nantucket-based growers, fresh-caught fish from one of the island’s last remaining commercial fishermen, lamb from Nantucket Conservation, and free-range hens and eggs from local farmers — and then works his magic. Out come a nearly ethereal whipped bone-marrow appetizer and a rabbit and foie gras terrine, followed by shrimp tempura with house-made kimchee and smoked pork jowl. Pork is LaScola’s specialty; porcine pleasures might include suckling pig confit with creamy buttermilk grits or crispy pig’s ears. (LaScola makes a gutsy embrace of head-to-tail eating, with fine-tuned success.) This year, the restaurant celebrates its 25th anniversary, bringing back such all-time customer favorites as suckling pig carnitas with crispy shrimp and the signature chicken-fried quail. More reason to make our reservation now.  80 Centre St., Nan-
tucket, 508-228-711, www.am
ericanseasons.com
, entrees
$26.50-$38.50

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