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    If you go to Seoul...

    If you go . . .

    Where to eat

    Cafe Slobbie

    DongKyo-dong 163-9

    011-82-2-3143-5525

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    Take the elevator to the fifth floor to find MinGoo Choi’s

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    favorite lunch spot. $10-$15.

    ByeolChang

    13-8 Noryangjin-dong

    011-82-2-812-6200

    Inside the mammoth Noryangjin Fish Market, live fish ordered from the market’s mongers is transformed into South Korea’s take on sushi. (Order fish from a monger and tell him you’ll be dining at BeyolChang and he will take it from there.) Dinner with drinks is about $35.

    HoSu SamKyeTang

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    ShinGil-dong 342-325

    011-82-2-848-2440

    There’s really only one thing to order here — Samgyetang — chicken, ginseng, and jujube soup, South Korea’s healthy and famous version of chicken noodle soup, and this is one of the best spots to get it. About $12.

    KwanHoon Cafe

    KwanHoon-dong 195

    011-82-2-732-6469

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    A great spot to relax for a coffee or tea in the gallery-rich Insadong neighborhood.

    YeoGeoRi PoonNyeon

    KwanHoon-Dong 192-36

    011-82-2-720-4200

    In an alley parallel to the KwanHoon cafe, a great spot to first try traditional Korean cuisine in a farmhouse-style setting. About $20, including drinks.

    Where to stay

    Hotel JR

    ChongNo-gu, InSa-dong 87

    011-82-2-722-0003

    hoteljr.co.kr

    (English-friendly booking can be made on www.agoda.com)

    Tucked into an alley near the Jonggak subway station, this is a smart, modern, and economical spot in the center of town. Rooms from $100.

    Sophia Guesthouse

    SoKyeok-dong 157-1

    011-82-2-720-7220

    sophia-house@hotmail.net

    Mid-range accommodations in a beautiful, traditional home. Cramped quarters are a trade-off for a great location. Ask to be in the main house. About $100.