You can now read 5 articles in a month for free on Read as much as you want anywhere and anytime for just 99¢.

Sunday Morning

Stroll the crooked streets of Hungary’s past

Many of the area’s historic buildings are residences.

Necee Regis for The Boston Globe

Many of the area’s historic buildings are residences.

Continue reading below

Originally two cities, hilly Buda and flat Pest, Hungary’s capital straddles the Danube River. Sunday morning was recommended to me as a quiet and romantic time to stroll the Buda Castle District without the usual tourist crowds. This UNESCO Heritage neighborhood is rich in history: Palaces, churches, medieval houses, Gothic arches, and museums are packed together on crooked streets. Worth exploring are the restored Matthias Church — more than 700 years old — whose roof is covered in colorful ceramic tiles, and the adjacent Fishermen’s Bastion. With seven turrets, the bastion is perhaps the best place to view the city and the river. There is a fee to enter the top-level turrets (adults $3.20, children ages 2-12 $1.60). However, the free lower- level lookout provides an equally stunning view.

Many of the area’s historic buildings are residences (no cars are allowed except by those who live or work here) and there are many good cafes and restaurants. Finish the walking tour with an early lunch at Speiz, twice awarded the Bib Gourmand qualification by Michelin Guide (2012-2013), an informal eatery devoted to classic Hungarian dishes such as duck confit, chicken paprika, and goulash. Entrees $14-$22. Hess András tér 6 H, 011-36-1-488-7416,

Loading comments...
Want each day's news headlines delivered fresh to your
inbox every morning? Just connect with us
in one of the following ways:
Please enter a valid email will never post anything without asking.
Privacy Policy
Subscriber Log In

You have reached the limit of 5 free articles in a month

Stay informed with unlimited access to Boston’s trusted news source.

  • High-quality journalism from the region’s largest newsroom
  • Convenient access across all of your devices
  • Today’s Headlines daily newsletter
  • Subscriber-only access to exclusive offers, events, contests, eBooks, and more
  • Less than 25¢ a week
Marketing image of
Marketing image of