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A Tank Away

Still time for winter in Greenville, Maine

The steamship Katahdin is one of Greenville’s iconic images, in any season.Bob Hamer/photo by Bob Haber

Love winter? Check out Greenville, Maine, gateway to the Moosehead Lake region. The annual snowfall here nears 100 inches, and an April snowstorm is typical, not freakish. Greenville is a paradise for snowmobilers and ice fishing fans. On Saturdays, local folks turn the frozen, 40-mile lake into a racetrack for cars and trucks. Feeling contemplative? Strap on a pair of snowshoes or Nordic skis and admire Old Man Winter’s sparkling handiwork. Bonus points if you’re lucky enough to find a pair of moose antlers (called sheds, since male moose shed these and grow new ones in spring, with March and April being prime months.) You might even see moose if you drive to neighboring Kokadjo just before dusk.

STAY

A century ago, upscale types arrived in Greenville by train and repaired to grand hotels on the lake to escape the bustle of Eastern cities. These days, weary visitors seek similar refuge in the town’s gracious inns. Those open during winter include the 14-room Greenville Inn (40 Norris St., 888-695-6000; www.greenvilleinn.com; from $165), set in a restored, 19th-century lumber baron’s mansion. Located a short walk from town, the Victorian inn is darkly resplendent with period antiques and Tiffany lamps, enhanced with modern touches like whirlpool tubs and flat-screen TVs. Can you get more “Maine” than a bed decorated with moose antlers? We think not. That’s why the “moose room” at the Lodge at Moosehead Lake (368 Lily Bay Road, 800-825-6977; www.lodgeatmooseheadlake.com; from $250; rooms with lake views $319 and up off season; includes breakfast) is a must-see. Rustic luxury is the theme at this nine-room inn, where the views of the lake are dazzling, and innkeepers Linda and Dennis Bortis can arrange tours with local guides. Winning touches include high-thread-count sheets, fresh cookies in the pantry, and the engaging personality of Chloe, the resident bulldog. On the value side, the friendly, low-key Captain Sawyer House (18 Lakeview St., 207-695-2369; www.captainsawyerhouse.com; rooms $140-$165) offers four guest rooms in a circa 1849 farmhouse located two blocks from downtown. Besides serving a hearty breakfast to inn guests, it’s open for dinner.

DINE

“Hearty’’ and “homestyle’’ are the watchwords here. A local favorite for lunch and dinner, Flatlanders (36 Pritham Ave., 207-695-3373; three pieces of chicken with two sides $11.59), is known for its “broasted” chicken. Prepared in a pressure fryer, this crispy, juicy chicken is a triumph of poultry deliciousness. On the lighter side, the Thai salad with shrimp is a worthy option. Locals will also point you to Auntie M’s (13 Lily Bay Road, 207-695-2238; cash only; $3.99 and up), which plates corned beef hash, blueberry pancakes, and other breakfast and lunch fare from 5 a.m. Bonus: nice views of Moosehead Lake. As its name implies, the Rod-N-Reel Cafe (44 Pritham Ave., 207-695-0388; dinner only; $8 and up), serves plenty of seafood (the fried scallops are a favorite), but its major claim to fame is the prime rib dinner, followed by Karen’s Bumble Berry Pie.

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DURING THE DAY

Greenville’s home to five snowmobile clubs and a long-distance trail.

Get in touch with your inner Olympian as you glide along groomed cross-country ski trails through forests of spruce and pine; the Greenville area offers more than 150 miles of trails. Or meander the landscape on snowshoes. For sheer variety, you can’t beat the 70 miles of groomed trails (plus 50 miles of backcountry trails) maintained by the Appalachian Mountain Club (207-358-5187; www.outdoors.org ; free and open to the public). For access points, pick up a trail map at the Moosehead Lake Visitors Center (480 Moosehead Lake Road, 888-876-2778.) For rental gear, try Northwoods Outfitters (5 Lily Bay Road, 207-695-3288; www.maineoutfitter.com ). There is also a family-friendly downhill ski area nearby, Big Squaw Mountain (447 Ski Resort Road, Big Moose Township; 207-695-2400; www.skibigsquaw
.com; lift tickets $25), featuring 33 trails and a popular “Mogul Mites” kids’ program. Check the website for current conditions. The ice-fishing season typically runs through March. Moosehead Lake and the surrounding waters are known for brook trout, landlocked salmon, and lake trout. Local shops like Northwoods Outfitters (see above) and Indian Hill Trading Post (148 Moosehead Lake Road, 207-695-2104; www.indianhill.com ) can set you up with licenses, equipment, bait, and tackle. Snowmobiling is huge in Greenville (home to five snowmobile clubs and a long-distance snowmobile trail). The most reliable conditions occur from January to mid-March, but it’s been a snowy year so there might still be time to get in a ride. The best strategy for newbies is a guided backcountry ride. The liveliest spectator sport going is ice racing on West Cove (www.westcoveiceracing.com), where locals set up a racetrack on the frozen lake on Saturdays at noon and race cars and trucks with modified tires (huge studs) that grip the ice. Among the local shops, we especially like the Moosehead Indian Store at Kamp Kamp (3 Lily Bay Road, 207-695-0789; www
.mooseheadlakeindianstore.com), full of everything necessary to give your digs that “rustic retreat” look, including animal mounts, vintage snowshoes, and wooden furniture.

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AFTER DARK

If you’re not completely wiped out after a day of fun, scope out a spot at the Stress Free Moose Pub & Cafe (65 Pritham Ave., 207-695-3100) and enjoy a blueberry ale or other local libation. Feeling frisky? Bust your best moves on the dance floor at the West Cove Lounge (22 Rockwood Road, 207-695-4369), where a DJ spins tunes, or get into the Yee-Ha! Spirit at Woody’s Bar and Grill (21 Industrial Park Road, 207-695-2488), a country-western-themed hot spot with a large dance floor (and very little elbow room when a live band plays).

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Diane Bair and Pamela Wright can be reached at bairwright@gmail.com.

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Correction: Because of a layout error, an earlier version misidentified the picture credit of the steamship Katahdin. Bob Hamer took the photo.