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Cooking

Recipes for chilaquiles, matzo brei, and matzo toffee

Turn leftovers into something glorious

Photographs by Jim Scherer / Styling by Catrine Kelty

Serve chilaquiles for breakfast, lunch, or dinner and with any of these garnishes: pinto beans, fried or scrambled eggs, shredded chicken, sliced radish and avocado, crumbled cheese, chopped tomatoes (and onion, jalapeno, cilantro), and Mexican crema.

CHILAQUILES ROJO

Serves 4

Some recipes call for chips, but I find they get soggy.

2 garlic cloves

4 ounces dried chilies, seeded if desired, soaked until soft, and drained, with about 2 cups soaking liquid reserved

1½ teaspoons dried oregano

½ teaspoon ground cumin

1 8-ounce can tomato sauce

Salt

3 tablespoons neutral oil

16 stale 6-inch corn tortillas, broken into bite-sized pieces (about 4 cups)

1 medium onion, chopped

In a blender, pulse the garlic a few times then puree with the chilies and 1½ cups of the soaking liquid, oregano, cumin, tomato sauce, and 1½ teaspoons salt. Strain sauce if desired (you will have about 2½ cups) and discard solids. Taste and adjust seasoning with additional salt and consistency with additional soaking liquid, if necessary.

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In a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the tortillas and saute for 3½ minutes. Add the onion and continue to cook about 3½ minutes longer. Add the sauce (carefully — it will sputter and spit) and saute until tortillas have absorbed some of the sauce, about 2 minutes, and serve.

 

 

photograph by Jim Scherer / Styling by Catrine Kelty

MATZO BREI

Serves 4

3 6-by-6-inch matzos

6 eggs

Salt and pepper

2 teaspoons neutral oil

1 tablespoons butter

Break matzos into roughly 2-inch pieces and place in a colander. Run warm tap water over the matzo for 1 minute to soften, tossing. Drain thoroughly (do not squeeze).

In a large bowl, beat the eggs with ¾ teaspoon salt and pepper to taste. Stir in the matzo. In a medium nonstick skillet over medium heat, heat the oil and butter until melted. Pour the matzo-egg mixture into the skillet and cook, constantly scraping the bottom and sides of the pan and folding with a heatproof spatula, until eggs are cooked through but still moist, about 2½ minutes. Serve at once.

Variation

SWEET MATZO BREI WITH APPLES AND RAISINS

Serve with a sweet garnish.

Follow the recipe for Matzo Brei, making the following changes:

1) In a small bowl, soak ½ cup golden raisins in hot water for 15 minutes, then drain and set aside.

2) In a medium nonstick skillet over medium heat, heat 1 tablespoon butter until melted. Add 1 large Golden Delicious apple, peeled and cut into ¾-inch pieces, and saute about 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and wipe out the skillet.

4) Proceed with Matzo Brei recipe, omitting the pepper and oil and adding the raisins and sauteed apple to the matzo-egg mixture.

5) Serve with jam, honey, maple syrup, or cinnamon sugar (about ¾ teaspoon cinnamon to 3 tablespoons sugar).

MARCY GOLDMAN’S ADORED AND ADDICTIVE CHOCOLATE-TOFFEE-MATZO CRUNCH

Makes about 32 pieces

This recipe is adapted from Marcy Goldman’s book A Treasury of Jewish Holiday Baking.

6 6-by-6-inch matzos

12 tablespoons butter

¾ cup light brown sugar

Salt

1½ easpoons vanilla

1 cup bittersweet chocolate chips

Flaky sea salt, optional

1 cup chopped, toasted nuts or toasted unsweetened coconut for topping, optional

With a rack in the middle position, heat the oven to 350 degrees. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with foil and parchment. Arrange the matzos in a layer on the parchment, breaking them as necessary to fit, and set aside.

In a small saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the brown sugar and ½ teaspoon salt and cook, stirring constantly, until mixture comes to a strong simmer; continue cooking and stirring for 3 minutes. Off heat, carefully stir in the vanilla, then, working quickly, pour the mixture over the matzo and use a heatproof spatula to spread it evenly all the way to the edges of the pan. Bake for 14 minutes, rotating halfway through and checking to ensure that edges don’t burn. Turn off the oven, sprinkle chocolate chips evenly over the toffee, and return pan to oven to melt chocolate, about 4 minutes. Use the spatula to spread the chocolate evenly over the toffee, sprinkle with sea salt or toppings, if using, and set pan on a wire rack to cool, at least 90 minutes. Break into 2-by-2-inch pieces and serve (toffee will keep in an airtight container for about 1 week).

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