At Nix’s Mate downtown, chef David Nevins — formerly of Neptune Oyster — makes a classic tonnato using Italian oil-packed tuna, mayonnaise, and sour cream, but instead of the traditional thinly sliced veal, serves the velvety sauce with gamy thick-cut domestic lamb chops.

NIX’S MATEHilton Boston Downtown, 89 Broad Street, Boston, 617-348-1234, nixsmate.com