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    A Restaurant’s Take

    Catalyst’s chowder

    In the Technology Square restaurant, roasted blue cod with chowder.

    Jonathan Wiggs/Globe Staff/file

    Catalyst in Cambridge, headed by chef-owner William Kovel with chef de cuisine Anthony Mazzotta, turns out dishes that gently nudge convention without trying to overthrow the hegemony. One such is a piece of beautifully roasted cod in chowder reinforced with mussels, clams, and potatoes crushed with olive oil and creme fraiche. —Devra First

    CATALYST RESTAURANT 300 Technology Square, Cambridge, 617-576-3000, catalystrestaurant.com