Catalyst in Cambridge, headed by chef-owner William Kovel with chef de cuisine Anthony Mazzotta, turns out dishes that gently nudge convention without trying to overthrow the hegemony. One such is a piece of beautifully roasted cod in chowder reinforced with mussels, clams, and potatoes crushed with olive oil and creme fraiche. —Devra First

CATALYST RESTAURANT 300 Technology Square, Cambridge, 617-576-3000, catalystrestaurant.com