Portland calling

A menu inspired by the Pacific Northwest

Fillets of fish with red wine sauce.
By Jim Scherer/Styling by Catrine Kelty
Fillets of fish with red wine sauce.

TIP Simmer the wine in a wide, shallow pan to reduce it.


Serves 6

 Adapted from Wildwood, by Cory Schreiber.

 1 head garlic, outermost papery skins removed

2 tablespoons olive oil

1¼ cups Pinot Noir

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, soft

1½ teaspoons minced fresh thyme

Salt and pepper

¼ cup flour

2¼ pounds skinned halibut, cod, or other thick white fish fillets

2 tablespoons snipped fresh chives

 With the rack in the center position, heat the oven to 375 degrees. Slice off the very top of the garlic head to expose the tops of the cloves, place in a dish, drizzle with 1 tablespoon oil, and cover with foil. Roast 40 minutes, then remove the foil and continue roasting until soft and golden brown, about 15 minutes longer. When cool enough to handle, squeeze the cloves out of their skins and mash.

Photo by Jim Scherer.
Simmer the wine in a wide, shallow pan to reduce it.

Meanwhile, in a medium skillet over medium-high heat, bring the wine to a strong simmer. Adjust the heat to medium and reduce to about 3 tablespoons, about 15 minutes; set aside. Use a mixer to beat together the butter, mashed garlic, reduced wine, thyme, and ½ teaspoon each salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour and up to 4 days.

Get Today's Headlines in your inbox:
The day's top stories delivered every morning.
Thank you for signing up! Sign up for more newsletters here

In a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, heat the remaining oil until shimmering. Meanwhile, spread the flour in a shallow dish. Sprinkle the fish with salt and pepper, dredge in the flour, and place in the skillet. Cook fillets, without moving, until the edges are opaque and bottoms are golden brown, about 5 minutes. Carefully turn the fillets, adjust the heat to medium, and cook, without moving, until the fish is opaque and the thickest part of each fillet is firm and flakes easily, 2 to 7 minutes longer (depending on type and thickness of fish). Transfer the fillets to a serving platter, top each one with 1 tablespoon wine-garlic butter, sprinkle with chives, and serve at once.


Makes about 6 cups

 1 cup low-sodium chicken broth

3 pounds cremini mushrooms, quartered (left whole if very small)

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper

2 garlic cloves, minced

1½ teaspoons minced fresh thyme

1 teaspoon each finely grated zest and juice from 1 lemon

1/3 cup chopped mixed fresh herbs, such as parsley, chives, or dill

With the rack in the center position, heat the oven to 425 degrees. In a medium skillet over high heat, bring broth to a boil and reduce to about 3 tablespoons, about 7 minutes; set aside.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, toss the mushrooms with 3 tablespoons oil and 1 teaspoon salt. Spread on a large rimmed baking sheet and roast until liquid is released and evaporated, about 35 minutes. Taking care to avoid escaping steam, stir mushrooms; continue roasting until deeply browned, 10 to 15 minutes longer. Remove pan from oven, add the chicken broth reduction, and stir to mix.

Meanwhile, in a small skillet over medium-low heat, saute the remaining oil, garlic, and thyme until they begin to sizzle, about 4 minutes. Add the lemon zest and juice, then add this mixture, pepper to taste, and the herbs to the mushrooms. Taste and adjust seasoning, if necessary, transfer to a serving dish, and serve at once.




Makes 1 3-quart crumble

 7 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut up, plus extra for baking dish

½ cup granulated sugar

1½ teaspoons finely grated zest and 2 tablespoons juice from 1 lemon

5 pounds ripe but firm Bartlett or Anjou pears, peeled and cut into 1¼-inch pieces

1 teaspoon ground cardamom


1 tablespoon cornstarch

2/3 cup flour

1¾ cups hazelnuts, toasted, skinned, and chopped

1/3 cup light brown sugar, packed

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

 With the rack in the lower-middle position, heat the oven to 400 degrees. Butter a 13-by-9-inch pan and set aside. In a large bowl, stir together 1/3 cup granulated sugar and the lemon zest, then toss in the pears, cardamom, and ¼ teaspoon salt. In a small bowl, mix the lemon juice and cornstarch; add to the pears and toss to combine. Scrape the pears into the baking dish and spread evenly.

In a food processor, pulse the flour and ½ cup hazelnuts until nuts are finely ground. Add the brown sugar, remaining granulated sugar, baking powder, vanilla, and ½ teaspoon salt, and process to combine. Scatter the butter over the flour mixture and process until the mixture begins to look sandy, 8 to 12 seconds. Add the remaining hazelnuts and process just until the mixture is evenly moist, about 5 seconds longer. Sprinkle over the pears.

Bake until the pears are bubbling and the topping is well browned, 40 to 50 minutes, rotating the dish halfway through. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Send comments to