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The Boston Globe

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Cooking

Berry nice

Mix and match blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, and strawberries in puddings for flavor fireworks.

Whether it’s actually the case or not, I still tend to think of the English as a rather restrained lot. Until it comes to dessert, that is. Take the traditional trifle, combining cake, cookies, fruit, pastry cream, and whipped cream in a single confection, or sticky toffee pudding that’s sweet enough for any three regular desserts. There’s also the matter at hand — English-Style Summer Berry Pudding (pictured), in which four types of berries show up in every bite. At their summer peak, each type of ripe, local berry is sublime on its own, but several together just multiplies the effect. Restrained? I think not.

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