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A Restaurant’s Take

Just a sliver (or three)

At Modern Pastry in the North End, try a little torrone.

Maria Luberto held a tray of torrone at Modern pastry as owner Giovanni Picariello looked on.

John Tlumacki /Globe staff/file

Maria Luberto held a tray of torrone at Modern pastry as owner Giovanni Picariello looked on.

Torrone, as nougat is known in Italy, is mind-blowing stuff: chewy, packed with roasted nuts, and suffused with the flavor of honey. Modern Pastry in the North End makes it in flavors including chocolate, caramel, hazelnut, and cappuccino. When I buy a bar, I like to pretend I’ll cut it into slivers and dole them out to myself over the next few days. Never happens.

MODERN PASTRY 257 Hanover Street, Boston, 617-523-3783, modernpastry.com

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