In the Middle East, za’atar is both the name of a specific herb, said to be a type of wild thyme, and a ubiquitous herb blend. The ingredients in the blend vary with the cook, but thyme, sesame seeds, sumac, salt, and pepper are the constants, with oregano, marjoram, cumin, and chilies appearing on occasion. I use za’atar as a coating for grilled chicken and in a dressing for a bread salad with grilled zucchini. (That’s if I have any left over after I finally stop dipping pita into every batch!)
Homemade Za’atar
Makes about ¾ cup
I learned to use fresh thyme from my friend Dawn Yanagihara in her book Dips & Spreads; a 1-ounce package of thyme will yield 1/3 cup chopped.
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1/3 cup sesame seeds, lightly toasted and cooled
1/3 cup finely chopped fresh thyme
2 teaspoons dried oregano or marjoram
1½ tablespoons ground sumac
Kosher salt and pepper
In a spice grinder or mini chopper, pulse the sesame seeds, thyme, and oregano or marjoram to begin breaking down the seeds and the thyme, about 4 2-second pulses. Scrape the mixture into a medium bowl, add the sumac, 1½ teaspoons kosher salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper, stir to mix, and serve. The mixture will keep in a covered, airtight container for about 1 week.
Grilled Chicken Thighs With Honey and Za’atar
Serves 6 (2 thighs each)
I recommend oiling the grill grate not just at the outset of cooking, but again before returning the za'atar-dredged chicken to the fire.
If you want a simple sauce to serve with the chicken, plain Greek yogurt whisked with some olive oil, chopped scallions or parsley, and salt and pepper is easy and good.
Salt and pepper
3 tablespoons sugar
12 bone-in chicken thighs (about 3½ pounds), trimmed, rinsed, and dried
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¼ cup honey
1 tablespoon finely grated zest and 1 tablespoon juice from 1 lemon, plus lemon wedges for serving
1½ tablespoons pressed or grated garlic (about 6 medium cloves)
1 recipe (about ¾ cup) za’atar
Neutral oil, for the grill
¼ cup thinly sliced scallion whites and greens (about 2 medium scallions)
In a large bowl, mix 1/3 cup salt, the sugar, and 6 cups water, stirring to fully dissolve the salt and sugar. With a sharp paring knife, cut a 1-inch slash in the skin on each chicken thigh, submerge them skin side down in the liquid, cover, and refrigerate for 1 hour. Remove the chicken from the brine, rinse under running water, and dry well with paper towels.
Meanwhile, in a large, nonreactive bowl, whisk the honey, lemon zest and juice, garlic, and 1 teaspoon pepper to mix. Place the za’atar in a pie plate or other shallow dish. Set both aside.
Prepare a medium-hot two-level fire in a charcoal grill, or preheat a gas grill on high. (If using a gas grill, adjust one burner to medium-high and the other(s) to low, and grill with the lid closed.) Clean and oil the grill grate. Grill the chicken pieces bone side down on the hot side of the grill, undisturbed (unless the fire flares, in which case squirt it with water or temporarily move the chicken to cool side of the grill) until the meat is grill-marked, about 2½ to 4 minutes. Turn the pieces over and continue grilling, again undisturbed, until the skin is browned and crisp, about 2½ minutes longer. Move the chicken to the cooler side of the grill and continue grilling, turning occasionally, until chicken is cooked through (the meat registers 170 to 180 degrees on instant-read thermometer), 20 to 30 minutes longer.
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Transfer the chicken to a platter.
Working with one piece of chicken at a time, use tongs to dip both sides in the honey mixture to coat lightly, then dredge in the za’atar, pressing the chicken lightly to help the za’atar adhere. Oil the grill grate again, return the chicken to the hotter side of the grill, and grill, undisturbed, until the za’atar is very lightly browned, 4 to 6 minutes, turning once halfway through. Move the chicken to a platter and rest for 5 minutes. Sprinkle with scallions and serve warm, with lemon wedges.
Grilled Zucchini Fattoush With Za’atar Vinaigrette
Makes about 12 cups; serves 8
I especially like to use whole wheat pita for this salad. You can make the za’atar and dressing and grill the zucchini, onions, and bread ahead of time, but this salad isn’t a keeper, so mix it at the last minute and serve it at once.
1½ pounds zucchini (about 6 small), ends trimmed and halved lengthwise
1 pound onions (about 2 medium), peeled, cut into ¾-inch-thick slices and threaded onto skewers if desired
2 large pita breads
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
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Salt and black pepper
Neutral oil, for the grill
2½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/3 cup za’atar
1 medium red, orange, or yellow bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into ½-inch pieces
½ cup pitted Kalamata olives, quartered lengthwise
1½ cups torn parsley leaves
1 small romaine lettuce heart, washed and cut into bite-size pieces (about 6 cups)
Prepare a medium-hot fire in a charcoal grill, or preheat a gas grill on high. (If using a gas grill, adjust burners to medium-high and grill with the lid closed.) Brush zucchini halves, onions, and pitas with 2 tablespoons olive oil and sprinkle with salt and black pepper. Clean and oil the grill grate.
Grill the zucchini until just tender and grill-marked, turning as necessary, 6 to 12 minutes, and the onions until just tender, browned, and grill-marked, 12 to 20 minutes, turning them over once halfway through the first 12 minutes, and as necessary thereafter. Grill the pitas over medium heat (if using a gas grill, adjust the burners to medium) until well toasted and grill-marked, 2 to 4 minutes per side, and set aside. Cut the zucchini halves into ½-inch pieces, roughly chop the onions, and set aside.
In a large, nonreactive bowl, whisk the lemon juice, ¼ cup of the za’atar, and ½ teaspoon salt. Vigorously whisk in the remaining 6 tablespoons olive oil; taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and black pepper if necessary. Add the grilled zucchini and onions, bell pepper, and olives, and toss to coat with the dressing. Break the pita into rough 1½-inch pieces and add it, most of the parsley, and the lettuce to the vegetables and toss lightly. Adjust the seasoning with additional salt and black pepper if necessary, transfer to a serving platter if desired, sprinkle with the remaining za’atar and parsley, and serve at once.
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Adam Ried appears regularly on “America’s Test Kitchen.” Send comments to cooking@globe.com.