In Lowell, true Cambodian fare
S’gao jrourk trey at Simply Khmer Food in Lowell was outstanding. Filled with the bold tastes of Cambodia - lemongrass, garlic, kaffir lime leaves, galangal, jalapeno, fresh lime juice, basil and cilantro - it was a revelation in a bowl. Studded with chunks of tilapia, still in its skin with a few bones here and there, the soup takes some work. Because “no food is bizarre in Cambodia,’’ owner Denise Ban said, regulars don’t bat an eye at these oddities. Extreme eaters would be psyched to find pig intestines on the menu here.