NEWBURYPORT — On a hot summer night, a red sun set behind us as we paddled along with the outgoing tide in the Merrimack River. A curious seal surfaced long enough to check us out. A flock of hundreds of migrating cormorants emerged from the mudflats and skimmed across the surface, close enough for us to hear their beating wings. Soon a huge full moon rose over the river mouth to the east.
That was the night a few years ago when we fell in love with kayaking.