Every Sunday, Boston Globe photographer Stan Grossfeld asks the subject of one of his photos to explain what’s happening in the shot:
Up today: Matthew Hill of Nantucket paddleboards at Cisco Beach in his hometown, Aug. 27, 2013.
Hill: “I’m a surfer and this is just another outlet to ride the waves. I just love being out there in the water. It relaxes me, it’s great exercise, and it makes you feel like a kid again. I really want to just have as much fun in the wave as I can, and get as radical as I can. So I’m thinking about just destroying the wave because I think that’s fun. It’s all reflex out there, after I’ve been surfing for 20 years. There’s not much going on up there, it’s a total release of expression. It’s such a big board it’s hard to swing it around. It’s a little bit different vantage point [than surfing]. It really feels like you’re walking on water the whole time when you’re standing up, paddling around everyone, and riding waves on the paddleboard. It’s just like being on a big, slow, surfboard with a paddle you can use for balance. It’s a really big board and if it slams into me, I’ll get a really big charley horse. Am I worried about the sharks? It’s always in the back of my mind. They’ve always been around, but I’m not that worried.”
Stan Grossfeld can be reached at firstname.lastname@example.org.