Graham Parker, 22, of Nantucket, surfing off Cisco Beach, Sept.         7, 2011: ‘‘We follow these storms from Africa and then watch         them on the Weather Channel. We get excited because legitimately         on the East Coast we only see five or six solid swells a year.         It’s definitely dangerous but I feel comfortable out here. I’ve         been surfing since I was 10 and I can read the waves. Because of         Hurricane Katia, there were 8-foot waves. I’m thinking, ‘Get the         hell out of here,’ because when the wave hit the sandbar, it’s         like a big giant gets cut in half. The water crunches into the         sand, and there have been three boards smashed here. I’d rather         be battling a lineup of waves than stuck in an office doing         something I don’t want to do. It’s a harmonious order. It’s your         brawn versus whatever the earth has to offer.”