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Unexpected croissants from Bondir

Jason Bond built a reputation for creativity in the kitchen at his Cambridge restaurant Bondir, and he’s still at it

Croissants from Bondir.
Croissants from Bondir.Handout

Jason Bond built a reputation for creativity in the kitchen at his Cambridge restaurant Bondir. Although the restaurant is only open for takeout these days, he’s still getting creative. Bond has turned to his pastry skill and introduced a line of croissants he creates by hand. It’s a labor-intensive process that takes hours of rolling the dough and folding in slabs of cold butter repeatedly, so most pâtissiers use machines. His burnished, crispy, and airy croissants come plain and embedded with chocolate, but he’s also turning out more elaborate creations using the croissant as a canvas, as you might a crepe. One is savory, balancing buttery and salty, and has surprising charcoal layers from cuttlefish ink. The pastry is filled with a Japanese paste blended with rice wine vinegar and aged soy sauce and then sprinkled with black sesame seeds. Another, adorned with Swiss meringue, a blackberry, and stems of purple bachelor’s button, looks dazzling. Bond turned one into a Danish shape and embellished it with whipped goat cheese and white chocolate, triangles of dragon fruit pate de fruit (fruit jelly), and mint. Some of the fruits, vegetables, and herbs he uses come from his garden or ones nearby. “We’re take-out, for now but still want to give people something new,” he says. Bondir’s croissants are available at Formaggio Kitchen, 244 Huron Ave., Cambridge, 617-354-4750, and 94 Hampshire St., Cambridge, 617-714-5758; Lamplighter Brewing Co., 284 Broadway, Cambridge, 617-945-0450, and at Bondir, 279A Broadway, Cambridge, 617-661-0009.

ANN TRIEGER KURLAND

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Croissants from Bondir.
Croissants from Bondir.Handout

Ann Trieger Kurland can be reached at anntrieger@gmail.com.