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Krasi Greek’s food is as good at home as it is in-house

Typical Krasi Greek dishes include (clockwise from top left) htipiti (whipped feta with crispy chicken skins), taramosalata with toasts (smoked mullet roe dip), amygdalota (almond cookies with dipping sauces), patates (lemon potatoes with oregano bearnaise), pork souvla, chicken fricassee,  pita of the day filled with cabbage, zucchini, and halloumi.
Typical Krasi Greek dishes include (clockwise from top left) htipiti (whipped feta with crispy chicken skins), taramosalata with toasts (smoked mullet roe dip), amygdalota (almond cookies with dipping sauces), patates (lemon potatoes with oregano bearnaise), pork souvla, chicken fricassee, pita of the day filled with cabbage, zucchini, and halloumi.Sheryl Julian for The Boston Globe

Where to Krasi Greek on Gloucester Street in Back Bay, opened in mid-February. At the time, the place looked like a party: standing room only at the bar, table hopping, air-kissing, merriment. The bartender was still smiling well into the evening and the slammed wait staff was still friendly and gracious. One month later, all restaurants shut down.

Why The opening menu was memorable, every detail on every small plate interesting and well executed. The restaurant is open again with acrylic partitions between tables and a makeshift chic patio on Gloucester Street. We wanted to see if the food could make the transition from table to takeout.

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The Back Story The restaurant is in the narrow space that was Cafe Jaffa, now airy with pale gray walls and light wood. The venture is a partnership of four — Demetri Tsolakis (part of GreCo and Committee), Theo Tsilipanos and Tasha Breshinsky (Committee), and Stefanos Ougrinis (GreCo). They know dining room choreography and how to put a menu together so everything looks appealing.

What to Eat In ordinary black plastic takeout containers, the food looks as if the cooks had plated it carefully. Salty, creamy taramosalata (smoked roe pate), is garnished with chopped shrimp tossed with olive oil and herbs, served with grilled sourdough. Htipiti (spicy whipped feta) comes with sheets of crisp chicken skins for dipping. An exceptionally flaky stuffed pita is like a strudel with cabbage and halloumi stuffing, coiled into a snail shape before baking (shape and filling change daily). Lemon potatoes are golden, deep-fried wedges that come with oregano Bearnaise. Also lemony is a fricassee of tender chicken with spinach in an avgolemono sauce. Succulent souvla of pork with plenty of fat is smoky from the grill. Every bit of a quartet of almond cookies with a trio of sauces (hazelnut, jammy cherries, and tahini) is exceptional.

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What to Drink The name Krasi means wine. This is the place to take a deep dive into Greece’s new wave, organic, and natural pours. The all-Greek list matches the cuisine in authenticity and innovation.

The Takeaway Krasi does everything well, even shut down and reopen in the worst of times.

48 Gloucester St., Back Bay, Boston, 617-536-0230, www.krasiboston.com




Sheryl Julian can be reached at sheryl.julian@globe.com. Follow her on Twitter @sheryljulian.