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Exceptional crust and full-bodied tomato sauce on the pies at Enzina Pizzeria in Waltham

Seasoned restaurateur Ciro Maione of Domenic’s opened another place with pizza and Italian comfort food

At Enzina Pizzeria in Waltham, crispy chicken Milanese comes with salad greens dotted with mozzarella.
At Enzina Pizzeria in Waltham, crispy chicken Milanese comes with salad greens dotted with mozzarella.Sheryl Julian

Where to Enzina Pizzeria in Waltham, opened in May in the former space where Peter’s Greek Kitchen served for decades.

Why Because restaurateur Ciro Maione, whose parents founded Domenic’s, decided to open a place nearby that served pizza and traditional dishes from Italy. Enzina Pizzeria is named for Maione’s mother.

Ciro Maione, owner of the new Enzina Pizzeria in Waltham, named for his mother.
Ciro Maione, owner of the new Enzina Pizzeria in Waltham, named for his mother.Sheryl Julian

The Back Story Ciro (pronounced “Cheer-o”) Maione began in the restaurant business when he was 10 and his late father, Domenico, and mother, Vincenzina, opened Dominic’s in 1979. It started as a bakery and expanded to offer panini, salads, and other quickly made dishes with high-quality ingredients, no bottled dressings, and housemade everything, including the croutons. Enzina Pizzeria will follow that pattern, but it will be more than a pizzeria. The menu has an array of Italian classics and comfort foods designed and cooked by chef Giulio Fulgenzi, raised in the Piedmont region. Maione calls Enzina’s pizza “neo-Brooklyn,” because it respects old Neopolitan methods for making the dough, but produces a crust more like New York pizza.

At Enzina Pizzeria in Waltham, grilled eggplant is wrapped around ricotta and topped with tomato-basil sauce in the traditional dish Involtini di Melanzane.
At Enzina Pizzeria in Waltham, grilled eggplant is wrapped around ricotta and topped with tomato-basil sauce in the traditional dish Involtini di Melanzane.Sheryl Julian

What to Eat Big, juicy meatballs (polpette), made with veal, pork, and beef and served in tomato sauce; grilled, rolled eggplant slices stuffed with ricotta (involtini); crispy chicken Milanese with a little arugula salad dotted with mozzarella; exceptional pizza crust and full-bodied tomato sauce with loads of flavor (start with a Margherita — sauce, mozzarella, basil — to get the full effect), exquisite tiramisu.

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What to Drink Soft drinks from the cooler.

The Takeaway Like many restaurateurs, Maione doesn’t have enough staff and won’t open the dining room or outdoor tables along Main Street until he does. Enzina is takeout only right now (Wednesday through Sunday). Maione wants Enzina to be one of those places that travelers to Italy find off the beaten path when they stop somewhere casual and decide that “the food is amazing,” he says. He thinks the winning combination is good customer service and good food. He’s right, of course, and no doubt he will fill in the service piece. He’s already got the food part. 1056 Main St., Waltham, 781-786-1970, www.getenzina.com.

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The pies at Enzina Pizzeria in Waltham are what owner Ciro Maione calls "Neo-Brooklyn" for their Neopolitan and New York qualities.
The pies at Enzina Pizzeria in Waltham are what owner Ciro Maione calls "Neo-Brooklyn" for their Neopolitan and New York qualities.Sheryl Julian

Sheryl Julian can be reached at sheryl.julian@globe.com. Follow her on Twitter @sheryljulian.