The shop Bread Obsession, its racks flaunting gorgeous crusted loaves, recently opened in Lexington and has already become a go-to bakery. On opening day, the breads sold out within hours. “We opened at 8, and by 10, there was almost nothing left, says co-owner Varda Haimo. “People are so appreciative that we’re a local business.” Haimo and business partner Joan Forman, who both live in Lexington, may have just hung out their blue sign, but they’ve long had a following for their loaves, which they sell at farmers’ markets and wholesale to more than a dozen stores and a few restaurants, such as Woods Hill Table in Concord and its sister restaurant, Woods Hill Pier 4 at the Seaport. The bakers, for years, worked from a small commercial space in Waltham, but now, in a spacious sparkling new kitchen behind the retail shop, staff works steadily hand-rolling baguettes and shaping loaves — durum levain, sourdough, multi-grain sunflower, tzitzel (light deli rye), flaxseed rye — the dough fermenting for days to develop the breads’ robust flavors. “It’s an expensive process, but I got into the business to make great bread,” says Haimo. The bakers also turn out mini brioche rolls, bagels, cinnamon swirl loaves, and the Turkish specialty simit, a dense, circular bread (that looks like a bagel but with a larger hole) smothered in sesame seeds. Inspired after watching a TV series featuring a bakery in Turkey, Haimo taught herself how to create the rings. “Every bread we bake has a different story,” she says ($8 to $10 for loaves; baguettes, $5; simit, $8; ciabatta and brioche rolls, $4 and $5; bagels, $2.50). 433 Marrett Road, Lexington. The shop is open Wednesday-Saturday, 8 to 2 p.m. bread-obsession.com.
ANN TRIEGER KURLAND
Ann Trieger Kurland can be reached at firstname.lastname@example.org.