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SIPS

You can Rise & Shine later in the day, too

Banks Fish House's Rise & Shine puts a fun spin on the standard coffee cocktail.Liza Weisstuch

Consider Roger Miller’s classic recording of Kris Kristofferson’s “Me and Bobby McGee”: even-keeled, grounded, unambiguous; an image colored inside the lines. Now consider Janis Joplin’s rendition: intense, unmoored, intriguing, mischievous. That same differentiation is at play between the familiar espresso martini and Jason Percival’s Rise & Shine at the Banks Fish House in Back Bay.

The classic espresso martini, a 1990s darling that’s been making a very forceful comeback in bars around the country, is a simple mix of freshly brewed espresso, coffee liqueur, and vodka. It’s shaken and presented in a martini glass, sometimes with a few coffee beans floating on the surface. It’s clear-cut, familiar and comforting. Percival, the beverage manager, has, in the past, offered an espresso martini mixed with rum instead of vodka, and now, with the Rise & Shine, he eliminates brewed espresso altogether, but nonetheless imbues the drink with a coffee flavor that reveals itself with centrifugal force. Instead of straight espresso, he infuses roasted beans along with fresh cardamom pods in Irish whiskey. In a clever trick of chemistry, he uses whole beans and keeps the mixture at room temperature as it steeps, which results in less bitterness and a more velvety texture than if he employed hot liquid and ground beans. (Think: French press coffee versus cold brew.)

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With the coffee bitterness eliminated and a smooth canvas to work with, Percival has space to tinker with flavors. He replenishes the bitter element with an amaro, an earthy counterpoint to the cardamom essence. It’s a dynamic pick-me-up that delivers surround-sound-caliber flavor, a welcomed intensification of an even-keeled classic.

Rise & Shine

2 ounces coffee- and cardamom-infused Irish whiskey. (Combine two cups of whiskey, 1 cup of coffee beans, and one pod of cardamom in a sealable bottle or container. Seal and let sit 2 to 3 days at room temperature.)

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½ ounce Lucano Amaro (Alternatives: Amaro Nonino, Amaro Montenegro, and Amaro Meletti)

½ ounce demerara syrup (Combine 1 cup water, 1 cup demerara sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and stir until sugar dissolves. Let cool.)

1 ounce oat milk

1. Pour all ingredients into a cocktail shaker over ice. Shake vigorously for 10 seconds.

2. Strain into a coupe glass.

Adapted from the Banks Fish House

Liza Weisstuch can be reached at liza.weisstuch@gmail.com. Follow her on Twitter amd Instagram @livingtheproof.


Liza Weisstuch can be reached at liza.weisstuch@gmail.com. Follow her on Twitter @livingtheproof.