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THE CONFIDENT COOK

Recipe: Reuben sandwiches, the deli favorite, turn vegetarian in this sauteed mushroom adaptation

Mushroom Reuben.Karoline Boehm Goodnick

Serves 4

The deli classic Reuben, usually made on rye bread with corned beef, Swiss cheese, Russian dressing, and sauerkraut, converts easily to a vegetarian sandwich. Replace the beef with cooked mushrooms seasoned similarly to the original version. Because a Reuben is generally overstuffed, and the mushrooms cook down to virtually nothing, you need to start with what might seem like an overwhelming amount. Work in batches to saute the three pounds of cremini mushrooms if your skillet is not large enough, or add a second round of mushrooms to the pan once the first has started to cook down. When they are all cooked, add garlic, then stir in whole-grain mustard, paprika, and coriander. Prepare the sauerkraut and the Russian dressing (one of many versions of the popular ketchup-mayo combo) before assembling the sandwiches. Any rye bread will do, but see if you can find a thickly sliced marble or dark rye. For a deeply satisfying, crispy exterior, pan-fry the sandwiches in butter. Serve them with pickles and any remaining dressing.

MUSHROOMS

3tablespoons olive oil
3pounds cremini mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
5cloves garlic, finely chopped
2tablespoons whole-grain mustard
2tablespoons paprika
2teaspoons ground coriander
Salt and pepper, to taste

1. In a very large skillet over medium-high heat, heat the oil. Add the mushrooms, and cook, stirring often, for 15 minutes, or until they have collapsed and the excess liquid evaporates from the pan. If your skillet doesn't fit all the mushrooms at once, work in batches. Add the garlic, and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes.

2. Remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the mustard, paprika, coriander, and a generous pinch each of salt and pepper. Keep warm.

SAUERKRAUT

1tablespoon olive oil
½small onion, chopped
1pound sauerkraut, rinsed and drained
1cup white wine
1teaspoon whole caraway seeds

1. In another skillet over medium-high heat, heat the oil. When it is hot, add the onion. Cook, stirring often, for 4 minutes, or until golden brown.

2. Lower the heat to medium. Add the sauerkraut, wine, and caraway seeds. Cook, stirring often, for 10 minutes, or until all the wine has evaporated from the pan. Keep warm.

DRESSING

¼cup mayonnaise
2tablespoons ketchup
2tablespoons pickle relish or chopped pickles
Salt and pepper, to taste

1. In a bowl, combine the mayonnaise, ketchup, and pickle relish or pickles.

2. Add a pinch each of salt and pepper. Stir well.

ASSEMBLY

8slices dark rye or marble rye bread
8slices Swiss cheese
4tablespoons butter

1. Lay 4 slices of bread on a cutting board. Spread ample Russian dressing on each slice. Top with sauerkraut and mushrooms. Add 2 slices of cheese to each sandwich. Close the sandwiches with the other slices of bread.

2. In a large skillet over medium heat, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter. Add 2 sandwiches to the pan, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes on the first side. Remove the sandwiches from the pan; turn them over. Add 1 tablespoon butter to the pan and return the sandwiches. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes on the second side. Repeat with the remaining sandwiches. Serve with pickles and any remaining Russian dressing.

Karoline Boehm Goodnick

Serves 4

The deli classic Reuben, usually made on rye bread with corned beef, Swiss cheese, Russian dressing, and sauerkraut, converts easily to a vegetarian sandwich. Replace the beef with cooked mushrooms seasoned similarly to the original version. Because a Reuben is generally overstuffed, and the mushrooms cook down to virtually nothing, you need to start with what might seem like an overwhelming amount. Work in batches to saute the three pounds of cremini mushrooms if your skillet is not large enough, or add a second round of mushrooms to the pan once the first has started to cook down. When they are all cooked, add garlic, then stir in whole-grain mustard, paprika, and coriander. Prepare the sauerkraut and the Russian dressing (one of many versions of the popular ketchup-mayo combo) before assembling the sandwiches. Any rye bread will do, but see if you can find a thickly sliced marble or dark rye. For a deeply satisfying, crispy exterior, pan-fry the sandwiches in butter. Serve them with pickles and any remaining dressing.

MUSHROOMS

3tablespoons olive oil
3pounds cremini mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
5cloves garlic, finely chopped
2tablespoons whole-grain mustard
2tablespoons paprika
2teaspoons ground coriander
Salt and pepper, to taste

1. In a very large skillet over medium-high heat, heat the oil. Add the mushrooms, and cook, stirring often, for 15 minutes, or until they have collapsed and the excess liquid evaporates from the pan. If your skillet doesn't fit all the mushrooms at once, work in batches. Add the garlic, and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes.

2. Remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the mustard, paprika, coriander, and a generous pinch each of salt and pepper. Keep warm.

SAUERKRAUT

1tablespoon olive oil
½small onion, chopped
1pound sauerkraut, rinsed and drained
1cup white wine
1teaspoon whole caraway seeds

1. In another skillet over medium-high heat, heat the oil. When it is hot, add the onion. Cook, stirring often, for 4 minutes, or until golden brown.

2. Lower the heat to medium. Add the sauerkraut, wine, and caraway seeds. Cook, stirring often, for 10 minutes, or until all the wine has evaporated from the pan. Keep warm.

DRESSING

¼cup mayonnaise
2tablespoons ketchup
2tablespoons pickle relish or chopped pickles
Salt and pepper, to taste

1. In a bowl, combine the mayonnaise, ketchup, and pickle relish or pickles.

2. Add a pinch each of salt and pepper. Stir well.

ASSEMBLY

8slices dark rye or marble rye bread
8slices Swiss cheese
4tablespoons butter

1. Lay 4 slices of bread on a cutting board. Spread ample Russian dressing on each slice. Top with sauerkraut and mushrooms. Add 2 slices of cheese to each sandwich. Close the sandwiches with the other slices of bread.

2. In a large skillet over medium heat, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter. Add 2 sandwiches to the pan, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes on the first side. Remove the sandwiches from the pan; turn them over. Add 1 tablespoon butter to the pan and return the sandwiches. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes on the second side. Repeat with the remaining sandwiches. Serve with pickles and any remaining Russian dressing.Karoline Boehm Goodnick