Where to Pizza Project at the ever-expanding Charles River Speedway marketplace in Brighton. The development is home to on-trend spots such as Birds of Paradise (serious cocktails), Notch Brewing, The Koji Club (sake), and Super Bien (Latin American groceries).
Why For Sicilian slices and Italian sandwiches from Allie and Dan Spinale.
The backstory Pizza Project started as a mobile wood-fired pizzeria during COVID-19, with pop-ups at breweries and private parties. The couple often appeared at the Speedway, so this was a logical spot for their first permanent restaurant.
“The businesses that are at the Speedway are all just so unique and really good at what they’re doing. It’s just very nice to be in a community with folks who are like-minded in how they value the experience they’re putting forth for their customers,” says Allie.
Advertisement
Dan grew up working in pizza and sub shops in Billerica; more recently, he bartended at Brewer’s Fork in Charlestown and at Chelsea’s now-closed Mystic Brewery, where he met Allie.
“It was our first week being open on a Monday. We just ended up talking, because Allie and her friends were the only people there,” he says.
As a new couple — who got married right before the pandemic — they bonded over sourdough bread-baking and enjoyed pizza as comfort food. (They’re particular fans of Square Deli in Everett and Jinny’s in Newton.)
The baking turned into an evolving project, hence the name.
The pair works with Ground Up Grain in Western Massachusetts, as well as King Arthur flour.
“It is sourdough, but it’s really not that sour. We closely watch the acid levels in it. We tried to make a product that’s light and easy to eat,” Dan says.
What to eat The teensy shop specializes in spongey Sicilian slices. A tomato pie dolloped with basil and creamy burrata is sweet with hints of sea salt, crackling at the edges. Another version is dotted with oily little pepperoni cups and smattered with hot honey: simple and satisfying. There’s also a husky Italian sub with slabs of mortadella, capocollo, soppressata, provolone, red onion, a smear of hot peppers, and streamers of shredded lettuce flying out the sides — juicy and salty, but not runny. (I prefer my subs with mayo; sue me. This one is still very good.) The sleeper hit, though? Stuffed hot cherry peppers piped with clouds of Rogue Creamery bleu cheese: spicy, smooth, sharp. They’re the best snack this side of the river.
Advertisement
What to drink Seltzers, Coke, Topo Chico sparkling water, and Kimino sparkling juice. If you seek something stronger, there are plenty of opportunities for imbibing nearby.
The takeaway Succulent sourdough slices and spicy peppers in a neighborhood that’s definitely rising.
525 Western Ave., Brighton, www.pizzaprojectboston.com
Kara Baskin can be reached at kara.baskin@globe.com. Follow her @kcbaskin.