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Free range roasters in Newton

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Marjorie Druker has always been interested in a decent roast chicken. Twenty-seven years ago, she helped develop the concept for Boston Chicken, then went on to open New England Soup Factory with her husband, Paul Brophy. Recently, Druker returned to her culinary roots with Modern Rotisserie, a rotisserie-chicken-and-side-dishes place (roast chicken plate with 2 sides $8.95; whole rotisserie chicken $14.95) on the premises of the expanded Soup Factory in Newton Upper Falls. “The concept had good bones,” explains Druker. “But it needed a refresher. I took the old idea and modernized it.” To that end, side dishes range from mac and cheese and mashed potatoes to farro salad and snap peas with ponzu sauce. Apple-brined chickens are free range, and — in a move that seems both old-fashioned and modern — she offers Jewish favorites like latkes and chopped liver. “It’s all about deliciousness,” says Druker. “But the chicken — that’s what I love best and I’m really proud of.” Modern Rotisserie, 244 Needham St., Newton Upper Falls, 617-558-9966, www.newenglandsoupfactory.com.

JANE DORNBUSCH

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