Surveying a delivery of corn, tomatoes, and several kinds of squash, Mark Goldberg was reminded recently of how much he likes this time of year. “We’re right in between seasons, so there’s a lot to work with,” says the executive chef of PARK Restaurant & Bar. “It’s cool because the food and beer transitions are happening at the same time.”
That evening, Goldberg matched a pork-and-squash-filled pie with “Hop Noir,” a black IPA from Maine’s Peak Organic Brewing, which blends roasted chocolate malt and bright, floral hops. The arrival of cooler weather allows for pairings that are richer and heavier, but they don’t have to be. Around town, chefs and brewers are matching harvest foods with everything from smoky English porters to sweet Belgian tripels.