Dining out Tim Maslow is on a creative binge at Ribelle in Brookline 4 stars to the rebel ← Related Article Visit The Boston Globe Share on Twitter Share on Facebook Comment on this Scroll to top of page Jessica Rinaldi for the Boston Globe Ribelle is the first from-scratch outing for Tim Maslow, who worked through the ranks of New York's Momofuku restaurants. He then departed to reinvigorate his father’s Strip-T’s in Watertown. Jessica Rinaldi for the Boston Globe The food at the Brookline restaurant is startling, inventive, and smart. Chicken with greens and potatoes tastes as if the flavor of several birds has been compacted. Kayana Szymczak for the Boston Globe Maslow's impressive team works hard and fast in the open kitchen. Jessica Rinaldi for the Boston Globe Kale salad is served with oyster crema, padron peppers, and quinoa, ingredients that may never have come together in the same dish before. Jessica Rinaldi for the Boston Globe Imagination is nothing without the proper amount of salt and acid. And that is what really makes the food at Ribelle wonderful and satisfying. Each plate is perfectly seasoned. Jessica Rinaldi for the Boston Globe Lamb tartare showcases raw meat, tender and mild. Egg, sunflower seeds and sprouts, crisped pieces of mint, and radishes bring interesting tastes and textures to the composition. Jessica Rinaldi for the Boston Globe What to pair with such food? Ribelle’s wine list is like no other in town, filled with offerings from small producers featuring more-unusual grapes. It also offers well-made cocktails. Jessica Rinaldi for the Boston Globe And for dessert there is olive oil ice cream, salty and luxurious, with a chocolate topping that hardens on the frozen scoops: Magic Shell for adults.