Food & dining

99 Bottles

4 craft beers to be thankful for and what to pair them with

From left, beers by Goose Island, Pretty Things, Main Beer Company, and Firestone Walker.
Gary Dzen/Globe staff
From left, beers by Goose Island, Pretty Things, Main Beer Company, and Firestone Walker.

With new seasonal beer releases almost daily, the holidays are a great time to expand your palate. Many craft brews come in large bottles, making them perfect for sharing. You can bring two or three beers to grandma’s house and please everyone at the party.

Thanksgiving is next week, and to celebrate I’m offering four beers I was particularly thankful for this year. While these aren’t Thanksgiving beers in the literal sense, I am grateful to have had them this year and look forward to having them again. Each can pair with a different course of your big meal. One of them is bound to please even the most discerning aunt or uncle.

Maine Beer Company: Mo

We’ll start with the lightest. Mo is one of several exceptional pale ales from the tiny Portland, Maine, brewery. It has an intoxicating aroma of grapefruit, lemon, melon, and peach. Nothing dark here, no whiff of wet socks or hint of forest floor. This beer is described as having a dry finish, but there’s almost no finish at all; the drink doesn’t so much as dry up as melt away. What you’re left with are memories of tropical fruit and the sense that you might have been someplace much warmer.

Pairing suggestion: Turkey or any fried or grilled meat; spicy dishes.

Firestone Walker: Wookey Jack


Firestone Walker is an exceptional brewery in California wine country. Wookey Jack is a black rye IPA of 8.3 percent alcohol that has won back-to-back gold medals at the Great American Beer Festival. This is a hoppy IPA of 80 international bitterness units, but the roasted malts of this Cascadian Dark style ale mellow the hops just a bit while adding smokey chocolate notes. Remarkably smooth for such a hefty beer, its complexity will keep even your geekiest guests guessing. I ate a piece of chocolate before taking a sip and this beer was a continuation of the treat.

Pairing suggestion: Very versatile; pair with everything from bacon-wrapped dates to stinky cheese.

Pretty Things: Baby Tree

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One of my all-time favorites. I realized when shopping for this column that I don’t drink this beer nearly enough. What makes it so special? It’s a Belgian-style quad made by a husband-and-wife team in Somerville. Brewed with Pils, Vienna, chocolate malt, and oats, this super smooth quadruple checks in at 9 percent ABV.

Belgian-style beers are perfect for introducing craft beer to the unfamiliar. I spent many a night at the Publick House in Brookline enhancing my beer education. Figs and brown sugar waft up from the nose of this one. Pretty Things brews this as a springtime beer, but the dark fruit notes also pair well with a cold winter’s night. This beer is decidedly sweet but avoids being cloying or too heavy. It finishes dry and a little bitter.

Pairing suggestion: Pumpkin pie, sweet potato casserole; also a complement to meat dishes.

Goose Island: Lolita

The Chicago brewery calls this “a very sophisticated raspberry Belgian ale.” It is fermented with Brettanomyces, a bacterial spoiler that imparts a tartness to the brew. This sour beer, which was barrel-aged with Schaerbeek cherries, finishes like a white wine.

Sour beer has grown on me, but be careful with this one. If you’re the dad trying to convert his family to “real” craft beer, take a breath and admit tart beers aren’t for everyone. However, if you know a fellow beer enthusiast is crashing your holiday party, buy this and break it out for a refreshing wow factor. This beer ages for up to five years in the bottle, so buy two and stash one in your cellar. If you can’t find Lolita, Goose Island’s Sofie has a similar, slightly sour finish owing to the brewer’s proprietary Belgian yeast, though that beer is more restrained.

Pairing suggestion: Apple crisp, brie; anything with gravy.


I’m thankful for everyone reading this year, and for the kind words from those of you who have reached out. To you and yours.

Gary Dzen can be reached at Follow him on Twitter @GlobeGaryDzen.