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Bethany Graber for The Globe

Ramps, also known as wild leeks, are one of the first greens to appear when the ground begins to thaw and spring creeps in. At their roots, ramps are white and bulbous like scallions, but their stalks are a lovely shade of deep pink and they have thin, silky green leaves. Subtly aromatic, they have an onion-with-a-hint-of-garlic flavor. But as soon as they appear, away they go, sprouting up late in April and disappearing by early June. As the ingredient of the moment, their newfound popularity has increased their presence on shelves in and around the city. They don’t come cheap, selling for $10 to $20 a pound. Luckily you only need a handful (which is just a couple of ounces). They are a great complement to eggs or potatoes, and can add a gentle savory element to soups or stir-fries. Their delicate flavor makes them extremely versatile. Act fast. They have a very limited engagement. Available at Savenor’s Market, 60 Charles St., Boston, 617-723-6328; Wilson Farm, 10 Pleasant St., Lexington, 781-862-3900; Russo’s, 560 Pleasant St., Watertown, 617-923-1500.

BETHANY GRABER

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