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A southern Italian grape shines at Il Capriccio Ristorante e Bar

Tenute Rubino "Oltreme" Susumaniello at Il Capriccio Ristorante in Waltham.Tenute Rubino

At Waltham's beloved Il Capriccio Ristorante e Bar, wine director Jan Novak curates pours made from grapes that are tried and true, even if their names may not be familiar. The veteran professional loves to recommend a 2012 southern Italian unoaked red that hails from Puglia. Crafted by Tenute Rubino on a 125-acre estate near the Adriatic Sea, this lovely quaff, named "Oltreme" ($10 a glass, $35 a bottle), is made from native varietal susumaniello, less well known but no less relied upon than its usual blending partner, negroamaro. "This wine has bright acid, is fruit forward, and easy to drink, with not too many tannins," says Novak. It provides the perfect foil for chef-owner Richard Barron's linguine carbonara ($16, $27), handmade pasta tossed with pancetta, Parmigiano Reggiano, and poached egg. It's easy to see why this grape is taking center stage. Il Capriccio Ristorante e Bar, 888 Main St., Waltham, 781-894-2234, www.ilcapricciowaltham.com