Convivial butcher Jake Elmets, most recently at Somerville’s M.F. Dulock, has opened Ipswich Custom in the South End (1 Appleton St. at Tremont Street). The meat-focused restaurant replaces Merrill & Co.
Elmets has an impressive pedigree: Before Dulock, he worked at California’s Chez Panisse (“It’s the most relevant restaurant in the world,” he says), Nashville’s Husk (a stint that was cut short after a butchering injury), and at Brooklyn’s Reynard at the Wythe Hotel.
A recent menu showcased boudin blanc, tuna belly, and butchered-to-order lamb collar, plus a medley of fermented vegetables and cheeses. The restaurant’s name is in homage to Ipswich, Mass., home of Appleton Farms, one of the country’s oldest.
“We practice slow techniques such as butchery as it would have been practiced at the advent of hand tools and traditional fermentation methods,” Elmets writes in a release.
The 150-seat restaurant is open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday, and Elmets has high hopes for longer hours soon.
“I want this to be a breakfast, lunch, and dinner spot,” he said. “I want it to be that neighborhood place in the South End where everyone has a seat at the table. I don’t care how much money you make or don’t make. I want kids and businessmen.”