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An Italian red plays with woodsy flavors in pasta

Mary Prince Photography

Magic happens when the right red is paired with a warming bowl of mushroom pasta. At Tomasso Trattoria & Enoteca in Southborough, wine director Jeremy Margwarth recommends a 2014 Marchesi di Barolo “Ruvei” Barbera d’Alba ($12 a glass, $54 a bottle), a pour from Piedmont, made mostly of barbera grapes blended with a little
nebbiolo. It offers red currant fruit and what
Margwarth describes as a “strong acidic backbone” that refreshes the palate. On the plate is fettuccine alla boscaiola, ribbons of housemade pasta topped with sauteed chanterelles and hen-of-the-woods, tossed in a sauce made with garlic, Marsala, a touch of cream, and a garnish of fried fresh sage and Grana Padano. General manager Mike Cicciarella loves how the woodsy flavors play with the berry-and-spice profile of the red. It’s the kind of alchemy you crave on a cool fall night. Tomasso Trattoria & Enoteca, 154 Turnpike Road, Southborough, 508-481-8484, www.tomassotrattoria