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Serves 8

Use a mixture of potatoes for this dish: russets, gold, and red potatoes each add some character. Leave the skins on and simmer the potatoes in milk and water, then smash them with some of the cooking liquid and butter. Pack into a baking dish and brown the top before serving.

Canola oil (for the dish)
2russet potatoes, cut into 2-inch pieces
3Yukon Gold potatoes, cut into
2-inch pieces
4red potatoes, cut into 2-inch pieces
1cup milk
Salt and pepper, to taste
5tablespoons butter, cut up

1. Set the oven at 400 degrees. Oil a 9-by-13-inch baking dish.

2. In a large flameproof casserole, combine the russet, Yukon Gold, and red potatoes with the milk and enough water to cover the potatoes. Add a large pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and partially cover the pan. Simmer for 15 minutes, or until all the potatoes are tender when pierced with a skewer.

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3. Dip a heatproof measuring cup into the potato cooking liquid. Remove 1 cup.

4. Drain the potatoes into a colander and return them to the pan. Mash with a
potato masher, adding the cooking liquid 2 tablespoons at a time, and the butter a little at a time. The potatoes should be coarse, not pureed. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper, if you like.

5. Spread the potatoes in the baking dish but do not smooth the top.

6. Bake the potatoes for 20 minutes or until the top is golden and the potatoes are hot. Sheryl Julian