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New York-style bagels go fast

Aram Boghosian for The Boston Globe/Globe Freelance

Jamaica Plain resident Adam Hirsh turns batches of satiny dough into hefty and crusty hand-rolled New York-style bagels for his company Exodus Bagels. At CommonWealth Kitchen, a shared Dorchester space, his Hobart mixer hums. He produces many hundreds of rounds he’ll leave overnight in the fridge. The following morning at 5 a.m., he boils them, drenches many in seeds — sesame, poppy, or everything; he also makes plain and cheddar jalapeno — and bakes them. Hirsh then heads to Egleston farmers’ market in Jamaica Plain to sell his wares ($2 each; $20 for a dozen) and bagel sandwiches loaded with cream cheese, smoked salmon, capers, and roasted tomato, and with combinations like roasted beets, apple chutney, arugula, and carrot-ginger cream cheese ($3 to $10). Hirsh typically sells out in three hours. Although Hirsh, 45, grew up in Malibu, Calif., he loves bagels enough to have spent the last two years “playing with variables all bagel makers contemplate,” he says. “There are aspects of my bagels that resemble a New York-style, but other aspects are unique.” Some are almost holeless, which he says makes a better sandwich. Hirsh came to the Hub to attend Boston University and graduate school at Tufts. He worked as a teacher, moonlighting in restaurants. Later he became a manager at Pomodoro restaurant in Brookline, which he did for 10 years. He named his bagel company not after the biblical story, but in homage to Jews who moved from Dorchester and Mattapan to suburban towns. If it were up to Hirsh, the hunt for a bagel reminiscent of those from old Jewish neighborhood delis would stop when you tasted his. Exodus Bagels available at Egleston farmers’ market, Urbano Project, 29 Germania St., Jamaica Plain, Saturdays 10 a.m.- 2 p.m., or to order and pick up at the market go to www.exodusbagels.com